First American to Conquer Mt. Everest, Jim Whittaker, Passes at 97

Jim Whittaker, the pioneering mountaineer who became the first American to summit Mount Everest, has died at the age of 97. Whittaker, who also served as the first full-time employee and later president and CEO of the outdoor retailer REI, passed away on Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, his family announced.

Whittaker's historic ascent of the world's tallest mountain in 1963 cemented his place as a legendary figure in the annals of mountaineering. As part of the American Mount Everest Expedition, Whittaker, along with his Sherpa climbing partner Nawang Gombu, reached the 29,032-foot summit, becoming the first Americans to conquer the daunting peak.

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Beyond his mountaineering feats, Whittaker's legacy is intertwined with the growth and evolution of REI, the outdoor retail cooperative he helped shape. Hired as the company's first full-time employee in 1956, Whittaker played a pivotal role in expanding REI's reach and cementing its reputation as a premier destination for outdoor gear and apparel.

During his tenure as president and CEO from 1984 to 1997, Whittaker oversaw a period of significant expansion for REI, transforming it from a small regional player into a national powerhouse with hundreds of stores across the United States. His vision and leadership helped solidify REI's position as a trusted authority in the outdoor industry.

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In addition to his professional accomplishments, Whittaker was known for his unwavering commitment to environmental conservation and outdoor recreation. He was a vocal advocate for the preservation of natural landscapes and the promotion of active, adventurous lifestyles.